It’s competition day, I jump on my board, started to swim out to the waves, there was only little waves.
I was in first place , but as I looked out a big wave hit me, i fell off my board and hit the water, I was trying hard to get back to my board. Getting back up on my board I saw I had fallen to third place. Looking around searching for that BIG wave I could only see little baby ones that wouldn’t put me back on the leader board. Then out of the corner off my eye I saw the beginnings of the wave that was going to have my name on it….left, right, left, right paddling as hard as my arms would take me….the wave was MINE…...I turned my board and stood just as the wave carried me to 2nd place…
I went home wet and cold, happy to be in the the finals then went with my friends swimming. I got my board and went surfing we had fun.
Packing to go to Australia for the races, I have one more day in New Zealand, so packing all my staff in my bag needs to get done now. I got on the plane and had 5 hours to get in a nap. Getting off the plane and booking into to my hotel, I was looking on google maps for a good beach to go surf at……. I found a good beach to surf that is nice and close and looks pretty safe, shoving all my things quickly into my bag grabbing my board I ring a taxi. After paying the taxi 5 dollars I run down to the sand and into the water. The waves were clean but big, a lot bigger than the ones in New Zealand.
IT’s competition day, the big day, the day I have been waiting for my whole life, the day I have worked so hard for….I have dreamed of this day.
I wake up and feel the butterflies in my tummy, I try to calm them by brushing my teeth and going through my morning routine. Not that it works….
Once i get to the beach the crowed of people is thick and the talk is a buzz of who will win. I look at the leader board and see Ionly have to get that one perfect wave to win this whole thing.
I grab my board and head out into the waves...feeling the water between my fingers as i push under the waves to get out to the back.
I close my eyes and feel the energy from the water and the sun I feel it calling my name..Just as I open my eyes I see my wave, turning my board and letting the wave pick me up and carry me I feel at one with this wave...like it is apart of me. The butterflies have gone and it is just me and the water….the wave flips me and I flip back….the wave shakes me and I shake back….I jump the wave jumps….we are one…..as I reach the sand and hear the screams a crowd of my friends rush to hug me…….I have WON…..